Vertical Gardening

Do you long for masses of plants, but have only a small balcony or patio to work with? Fear not, garden lover, the answer is at hand with vertical gardening.

The idea of transforming a blank wall into a blaze of living colour has long been popular in Europe, where cramped conditions put outdoor space at a premium. So, if you want to get the most out of your outdoor living space, why not consider a vertical garden?

The types of vertical gardens you can create will be governed by the space available, the types of plants you wish to grow, and your imagination.

If you have a skinny garden bed along the base of a blank wall, careful planting can cover the wall from bottom to top with foliage. A trellis against a wall works especially well with containers placed at the base filled with climbers such as vines or roses.

Without a garden at the base of your wall, you are limited to stackable modules, containers or hanging baskets. You can use stackable modules that can be placed against a wall, attach a trellis to a wall, or use hanging baskets made from a breathable fabric

Plants which don’t require much soil, such as succulents, work best in small stackable trays. Trays also tend to have better irrigation than hanging pocket baskets.

The simplest and easiest vertical garden could be just a wire trellis hung on hooks attached to a wall, with plant containers placed on the ground below it. Fill the containers with climbing plants and in no time you’ll have your vertical garden.

If you are handier with tools, you can make your own stackable modules from a durable timber. Make sure you make allowance for drainage and apply a good preservative to the timber before filling with potting soil.

Vertical gardens work just as well for herb and vegetable growing and flower displays. Place your trailing herbs, such as oregano or thyme, towards the top of the wall and use the lower spaces for upright varieties, such as lettuce or tomato.

You don’t need to be an expert handyman or woman to create your own vertical garden. Even if you are more at home with a spade than a hammer or saw, there are modules that you can buy as opposed to making your own. And if everything else fails, you can always have an expert come in and create your vertical garden for you.

Now take another look at that blank wall outside and see how easy it is to change it into a glorious living vertical garden. Let your imagination run wild!

What Hydroponic Supplies Do I Need To Start Hydroponic Gardening

Hydroponics can be simple. You can start with the minimum hydroponic supplies and slowly find out what else you need as you go along. The particular hydroponic nutrients you need depend on what plants you are growing, and you may find that you need to add nutrient supplements to overcome nutrient deficiencies in your plants.

The easiest way to start hydroponic gardening is to use a static, media-based, non-circulating system. These are generally the most forgiving and most versatile ways to start hydroponics. These typically consist of boxes, bags or beds filled with a medium such as coconut fiber, sand, perlite, gravel or even potting mix. Among the other initial hydroponic supplies you need to start are a tank, a small pump and a feeder or dripper line.

There is evidence that long beds are easier to set up and care for than boxes or bags with individual drippers. The beds or troughs can be replaced with a Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) system which excludes a medium. However, the grower needs to have the necessary and confidence to make the switch to an NFT system.

Simple, non-reticulating systems are suitable for most crops so growers will be able to get experience this way for a long time using the bare minimum of hydroponic supplies. Among the crops you can grow in a medium such as coconut fiber are capsicums, radishes, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, zucchinis, herbs and root crops. Most flowers including roses and carnations can be produced this way.

The most important of all the hydroponic supplies you will need to start a static, non-circulating system is the growing medium. A high-quality coconut fiber will give you all the anchoring you need. Ideally, the coco coir, as it is also called, should be pH balanced and pre-buffered to enhance your plants uptake of hydroponic nutrients. Then you need containers. Polystyrene foam boxes and nursery bags are among the options, but long plastic pipes that have been halved longwise make useful growing trenches.

You need clean water for hydroponic gardening, but there is no need to go overboard in getting it clean. As long as you regularly sterilize your water supply and your hydroponic nutrients solution you should not have any problems. As long as your water supply has no suspended solids in it, such as dam water, then it is quite suitable for hydroponic gardening. You also need a nutrient tank.

Last but not least you need to invest in hydroponic nutrients to mix with the water and administer to the plants. You can get additional information from the experts at the company where you buy your hydroponic supplies, but a single pack nutrient, which is complete, balanced and specifically designed for the particular crop is the easiest to use. The dry nutrient is weighed and added slowly, taking a few minutes, to the nutrient tank as a dry powder while the tank is being filled or agitated. A well-formulated, single-pack nutrient will dissolve completely with merely a trace of sediment, which removed by the filter.

To recap: the hydroponic supplies you will need in order to start hydroponic gardening are:
growing medium
container/s
clean water
nutrient tank
hydroponic nutrients

How To Fail At Csa Market Gardening

CSA market gardening is a great way to connect farmers and consumers. The farmer receives a good income and guaranteed cashflow, and the consumer gets a steady supply of fresh, local food. But your CSA can fail if you don’t avoid the following mistakes.

CSA market gardening mistake 1: Marketing. Community Supported Agriculture programs typically experience high turnover of customers, especially in the early years. You may lose as many as 40% of your customers each year. This means you need to be continuously marketing to find new customers to replace the losses, and even more if you expect to grow.

Marketing your garden doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive; the first thing to invest in is some good business cards. Cards are a cheap way to promote your market garden. You can print both sides of the card, perhaps using the back of the card as a coupon for new customers.

Mail-out flyers are also an effective marketing tool. Flyers let you target a particular geographic area, and a 1-page 2-sided flyer gives you lots of room to get your message across.

You should also consider creating a website for your market garden; having a web presence is expected of businesses these days. And a well-designed, keyword-focused, content-driven website is your marketing magic weapon, bringing in customers even while you sleep.

CSA market gardening mistake 2: Not growing enough produce. When customers join your CSA, they often pay you in advance for the season. You have to make sure you deliver great value for that payment. This starts with planning.

Since you know how many customers you have, you can plan your garden to make sure you have ample produce for everyone. For example, if you have 50 customers who each want one head of lettuce each week, you need to be able to harvest at least 50 heads. However, not all lettuce seeds germinate. And not all plants successfully grow to produce a harvestable crop. You can lose plants to insects, or disease, or bad weather. So to make sure you will have sufficient produce available, you need to build in a safety factor; that is, plant more than you think you will need. So to get 50 harvestable head of lettuce, you might start by planting 75 seeds; this will give you some allowance for losses.

And you have to take all reasonable means to protect your crop from the perils mentioned above. You need protection against insects, disease, flooding, predatory animals, drought, and storms. It does you no good to grow beautiful vegetables if you lose them before harvest.

CSA market gardening mistake 3: Not growing enough variety. Successful CSA’s grow lots of vegetables, and a large variety of vegetables. There are some good reasons for this: first, your customers will appreciate receiving something different in their delivery boxes each week. The more types of vegetables you grow, the more people you will appeal to.

The second reason to grow a large variety is for security of production. To give an extreme example, if you grew only two vegetables, and you lose one, your garden has lost 50%. On the other hand, if you grow 20 different vegetables and you lose one, you garden is still at 95%.

And finally, you need to grow a large variety of crops to stretch out your season. Different vegetables, and even different types of the same vegetable, mature at different times. The more you grow, the longer your potential season.

CSA market gardening can bring a great benefit to both farmers and consumers, if you avoid these mistakes.

Something Fungal This Way Comes…

The gardening headlines this week have been plastered with the threat of two new diseases that could potentially devastate Europes indigenous tree population.

In southern France, along the famous Canal du Midi, a plan has been in motion since last winter that will see the felling and destruction of 42,000 plane trees in the region. This is due to the arrival of Ceratocystis platani, a disease that, since the 1970s, has been blitzing across Europe, originating in Italy. It is believed the blight, endemic to North America, was brought across the ocean by U.S. soldiers in World War Two. While the Midi, perhaps due to its recently endowed world heritage title, is certainly the most noticeable among the losses, the disease has also become prevalent in Switzerland, Germany and Greece, where it now threatens a vast percentage of the original Plane population.
The Canal, a world renowned tourist attraction, was originally designed as an economic conduit that allowed the merchants of old to bypass the treacherous Atlantic Ocean en route to the Mediterranean Sea. However, in a somewhat ironic twist, the original species of Mississippi Plane that have successfully adapted to this affliction are being imported in great numbers in order to replace one of the Canals main attractions. Unfortunately, while Toulouse can cater to their favoured humid environment, it is unclear whether this species will be viable to supplement the depletion that chillier areas of the continent have suffered.
The threat does not stop in Toulouse however – given the virility of the affliction, tree pathologist Steve Woodward (University of Aberdeen) agrees that it poses a grave threat to the urban based Planes of cities like Paris and London. It is the Plane that so commonly and attractively lines our city streets.
“We are talking about a massive disaster here if it continues to spread,” he says.
The disease is a fungal infection that, once exposed to the roots of the organism, will completely overrun it within 3-5 years and due to the damage this causes to the plants integrity, it is imperative that it be removed, lest it should fall and endanger passers-by in doing so. The disease is characterized by cankerous sores appearing on the inner bark of the tree, as well as an accelerated decline in both the quality and density of the plants foliage. No wound to the outer bark is too great or small to escape it and contact equals instant infection.

In addition to this threat from abroad, a new menace has been identified in rural Devon as a potential watershed moment for the diminishment of our domestic Yews and Lawson Cypresses in the form of Phytophtora lateralis. Identifiable by the patchy colouring of its trunk, a tree will also often exhibit slightly lighter foliage in places followed by out of season autumn colours. The tree will succumb soon after, as this foliage deterioration signals that the tree has become totally infected. While certain soil drenches can be utilized in the earlier stages of the disease, these will likely prove ineffective once it has advanced past the root structure; aside from which, use of these drenches on a mass scale would likely cause further environmental concerns and prove something of a pyrrhic victory.

Due to this increasing encroachment of pests and diseases, a body has been established to specifically target incoming detriments to our native plant life. This group, known as the Tree Health and Plant Biosecurity Action Plan, has been allocated seven million pounds with which, over the next three years, they will attempt to exert a tighter control on the intrusion of foreign fungi and pathogens that threaten the endemic population.
“If we don’t act now, we could end up with a similar situation to the 1970s when more than 30 million trees in the UK died [as a result of] Dutch elm disease.”
-Environment Secretary Caroline Spelman.
The key responsibilities of the plan will include the monitoring of exotic plants allowed to cross British borders, as well as increasing the knowledge and awareness of currently existing domestic threats.

How To Compost Cat Poo

Like the poor man who had a pea growing in his lung (true!) most of us are growing a seedling of green conscience these days. We are being encouraged to recycle so many items that the ones that do make their way into the regular bin tend to stick in our minds. If you compost or otherwise dispose of organic waste youll probably end up with a bin bag full of plastic packaging. If you own a pet cat or dog the warm parcels of their waste will make strange accompaniments to all that inert plastic.

Toxoplasmosis & Toxocara
How can it be that something as natural, green and organic as your cat, can be contributing to landfill in this way? Almost anywhere you look the advice will be to keep your pet waste away from your compost heap despite a growing number of biodegradable litters appearing on the market. The advice is based on the danger of Toxoplasma gondii, a parasitic protozoa (not a virus as is often thought) present in cat faeces. This can cause toxoplasmosis, a potentially fatal disease especially for pregnant women and small children with their still-developing immune systems. Toxocara catis (roundworms) are also likely to be found and can infect humans as well as cats.

Hot compost kills germs
Good reasons to keep cat poo out of your compost then. Well, yes, but there are ways to cope with these pathogens if you know how to compost correctly and with due care. Composts can get to temperatures in excess of 130C at which point very little living matter can survive. At much lower temperatures in the range of 65-70C, pathogens will still die in a matter of seconds. The British Standard PAS100 ensure that green waste compost reaches 65C for a minimum of 7 days, twice, which is erring on the side of paranoia but they cant afford to take any risks. Whats amazing is that compost generates these temperatures on its own given the right materials.

Biodegradable litter
With cats, unlike dogs, its not just the poo that has to be disposed of but the litter as well. Litter made from clay or silica will not breakdown (in our lifetime anyway) and will get stuck in landfill. There are compostable litters available made from wood chips, sawdust, newspapers and plant derivatives such as wheat or corn residues and wood chips but composting them means removing the poo first, unless you can be sure of getting your compost heap hot enough to kill the germs. This is perhaps ironic as the faeces are rich in nitrogen (which heats the compost) and the litter in carbon (which has a cooling effect) a match made in heaven from a composting point of view. Remove the nitrogen and the carboniferous material will take an age to disappear. Together they would be much more likely to reach the elusive hot temperatures required to make the compost sanitary. Even if you choose not to try composting the excrement, the litter will have soaked up urine, rich in phosphorus and nitrogen and be a valuable addition.

Cat Poo Wormery
Dog poo wormeries are being found to successfully deal with doggie do but cat poo wormeries arent as straightforward because of the amount of litter that accompanies the faeces. The worms seem not to enjoy the quantity or the mix. Removing the poos for the wormery and having a traditional composter for the litter, kept separate from the compost bin youll be using for any edibles, might be one solution but if it sounds a palaver having three systems on the go, then read on.

NatureMill composter
One composter that has yet to reach the British market is the NatureMill. Designed by scientist and inventor Russ Cohn, the NatureMill has started to solve the pet poo problems of San Francisco and is spreading across the United States.
The composter automatically grinds the input waste so it acts like a digester where shredding is part of the process. It is normal for digesters to need additional carbon-rich materials such as sawdust or wood pellets to keep the contents at the correct moisture levels and NatureMill is no different. This makes it perfect for the constituents of kitty litter.
NatureMill also maintains an internal temperature of up to 60C (140F) as a small current is used to heat the bin and it is well-insulated. The total electricity used is said to be 5 kWh per month, the same as for a night light. It has a carbon filter to absorb unwanted smells and can be operated indoors or outdoors. The bin costs $299 but a further $82.50 to ship it to Europe, but it really does solve the problem and keep your cats waste out of landfill. Compost for the garden is ready in an incredible two weeks. For any cat lovers with no or limited outside space this clever little disposal machine could be the answer. The only problem then is what to do with the compost when the houseplants are well-fed and blooming! How about a spot of guerilla gardening – feed a tree.

Compost alchemy
A fear of germs permeates our culture to the point where stories of sterile homes being responsible for childhood complaints like asthma have spread in the press and the dreadful O.C.D. can lead to compulsive cleaning (not in my house). Yet our understanding of hygiene has saved us from cholera and typhoid epidemics so is there a balance to be aimed for? Perhaps the next stage of understanding germs will come from ecology and knowing how microorganisms interact and keep each others’ populations under control. The compost process is certainly a complex set of interactions of millions of these microbes, their numbers swelling and ebbing according to the conditions in the surrounding environment. And somehow, at the end of it, a clean, sweet smelling earth is produced that feeds our plants and stores potential greenhouse gas carbon in a stable form. Perhaps we can trust Nature after all.
Disclaimer: Composters of cat poo do so at their own risk.